Bosnia and Herzegovina

Bridges and stone

Mostar's Stari Most is among the most recognisable bridges in the Balkans, its pale stone arch curving high above the turquoise Neretva. But quieter marvels are everywhere. In Jajce, a waterfall tumbles directly beneath the old town walls. The medieval tombstones known as stećci, scattered across highland meadows, carry mysterious carvings that have puzzled scholars for centuries and earned UNESCO World Heritage status. Počitelj's stone houses climb a hillside fortress like steps, each one angled for the best possible view of the valley below.

Rivers that run green

The country's rivers are among the cleanest and wildest in Europe. The Una rushes through forested canyons in a blur of rapids and emerald pools, while the Tara and Neretva draw rafters and kayakers from across the continent. Kravica's wide curtain of waterfalls crashes into a natural pool ringed by fig trees, and the Buna springs at Blagaj emerge fully formed from a cliff face beneath a sixteenth-century Dervish house. The Dinaric Alps provide the backdrop, with peaks that hold snow well into spring and trails that rarely feel crowded.

Ćevapi and copper

Bosnian cuisine is hearty, smoky and deeply social. Ćevapi, small grilled sausages served in warm somun bread with raw onion, might be the national obsession, debated with fierce local loyalty across Sarajevo, Travnik and Banja Luka. Burek comes in spirals of flaky pastry stuffed with meat, cheese or spinach, best eaten with a pot of plain yoghurt. And then there is Bosnian coffee, served unfiltered in a small copper džezva, poured slowly and sipped even slower. It is not espresso. It is a ritual, and rushing it would miss the point entirely.