Rwanda

Gorillas, Chimps and the Wild Heart of Africa

Volcanoes National Park in the north is home to critically endangered mountain gorillas, and a trekking permit here puts you face to face with family groups in dense bamboo forest at altitude, an encounter widely regarded as one of the most profound wildlife experiences on the continent. Further south, Nyungwe Forest National Park shelters chimpanzees, colobus monkeys and over three hundred bird species, with a spectacular canopy walkway suspended above the ancient rainforest canopy.

Kigali: A Capital That Surprises

Kigali is one of Africa's most liveable and forward-moving cities, threading across a series of hills with tree-lined avenues, a thriving arts scene and a restaurant culture that draws on Rwandan, pan-African and international influences. The Kigali Genocide Memorial offers a sobering and essential account of the 1994 genocide, handled with dignity and depth. Away from reflection, the Kimironko market, independent galleries in Nyamirambo and a booming coffee culture make Kigali a genuinely rewarding place to spend several days.

Lake Kivu and the Road Less Travelled

The western edge of Rwanda dissolves into Lake Kivu, one of Africa's Great Lakes, where fishing villages perch on hillsides above turquoise water and small islands beckon by kayak or wooden pirogue. The Congo Nile Trail traces the entire lakeshore on foot or by mountain bike, winding through tea plantations, peninsulas and communities that see very few visitors. Gisenyi and Kibuye are unhurried lakeside towns where the pace drops entirely, and the sunsets over Kivu are something to linger over with a cold Primus in hand.