Northern Cyprus

Castles in the Clouds

The Kyrenia Range runs the length of the north coast like a jagged spine, and perched along its ridgeline are three of the most dramatic medieval castles in the world. St Hilarion, Buffavento and Kantara each offer vertigo-inducing views across the island and, on clear days, all the way to the mountains of Turkey and Lebanon. The drive up through pine forest to reach them is half the adventure, and the silence at the top belongs entirely to you.

Kyrenia and the Old Harbour

The old harbour at Kyrenia is one of the most photographed corners of the Mediterranean, a crescent of low whitewashed buildings reflected in still water, with a Byzantine castle closing off one end. Restaurants spill out onto the quayside and fishing boats bob beside sleek yachts, creating an atmosphere that is unhurried and entirely its own. The Shipwreck Museum inside the castle houses a 4th-century BC Greek vessel that is among the oldest recovered merchant ships ever found.

A Table Worth Travelling For

Northern Cypriot food draws on Turkish, Greek and Levantine traditions without belonging entirely to any of them. Meze spreads arrive as a procession of small dishes: smoked halloumi, black-eyed bean salad, stuffed vine leaves, grilled hellim and wild herb pastries. Carob molasses drizzled over fresh cheese is a breakfast worth waking up for, and the local wines and carob-based spirits add a distinctly Cypriot note to any meal. Markets in Famagusta and North Nicosia overflow with seasonal produce and hand-rolled spices that make excellent souvenirs.