Albania

Bunkers, Bazaars, and Byzantine Brilliance

Decades of isolation left Albania with a peculiar legacy: some 170,000 concrete bunkers scattered across fields, hillsides, and beaches, now repurposed as cafes, art spaces, and curiosities. Alongside them stand ancient Illyrian sites, Roman ruins at Butrint, and the atmospheric bazaars of Krujë, where copperwork and kilims spill out beneath the walls of Skanderbeg's castle.

Mountains That Mean Business

The Albanian Alps in the north known locally as the Accursed Mountains are among the most spectacular ranges in Europe, and the Valbona to Theth trek has become a rite of passage for walkers seeking something genuinely remote. Come winter, Korça transforms into a festive highland town with some of the most convivial raki and byrek in the country, while summer draws hikers and shepherds alike to meadows above 2000 metres.

Riviera Roads and Raki Evenings

The SH8 coast road from Vlorë south to Sarandë is one of the great Mediterranean drives, threading past hidden coves, hilltop villages, and cliffs that drop straight into turquoise water. Evenings belong to the Albanians: long tables, grilled lamb, music that shifts between folk and something entirely its own, and a generosity towards visitors that has become the country's signature. Albania rewards the curious traveller handsomely.